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Giorgio Locatelli, 60 anni compiuti proprio lo scorso aprile, da cinque anni è il terzo volto di MasterChef Italia, lo show Sky Original prodotto da Endemol Shine Italy (in onda su Sky e in streaming su NOW, ndr) partito con la sua tredicesima edizione, in cui è il giudice “ragioniere”, come lo definiscono gli altri due, Antonino Cannavacciuolo e Bruno Barbieri. Uno chef italianissimo a 360°, ma che dal 1983 vive e lavora in Inghilterra, trasmettendo la sua idea di cucina: lo ha fatto attraverso moltissimi progetti, da headchef al ristorante Olivo, e poi, in particolare, aprendo prima Zafferano (1 stella Michelin, che ha lasciato come conduzione), e poi Locanda Locatelli (2 stelle Michelin) a Londra.
La televisione è arrivata (meglio tardi che mai si potrebbe dire), consacrandone ulteriormente la personalità, quello spirito internazionale, british, capace oltremodo di emozionarsi davanti alle storie vere e che provengono da lontano, e anche di scusarsi da Chef, com’è successo in una delle prime puntate, di fronte ad un ragazzo che raccontava di bullismo subito in cucina, sottolineando che oggi, nella maggior parte dei casi, le cose sono mutate e non bisogna arrendersi.
“MasterChef”, ci racconta, “è stata una svolta incredibile nella mia carriera. Solitamente gli chef arrivano a 55-60 anni e sono finiti, il 50% è già morto, l’altro 30% è alcolizzato, rimane un 20% che ce la fa a passare (ride, ndr). Per me è stato davvero un giro di boa. Io non ho mai fatto niente in Italia, e la prima cosa è stato questo programma”.
Nemo propheta in patria
Dall’Italia all’Inghilterra (andata e ritorno), con il successo a portata di mano.
“Sono andato via a 20 anni, ma è andata bene”, dice. “MasterChef è qualcosa di incredibile, quest’anno abbiamo una classe trasversale, una fetta della società italiana per quanto riguarda età, esperienza aspirazioni, sono sicuro che qualcuno la trasformerà in carriera, mentre altri magari indosseranno la casacca bianca in casa, o da altri, ma continueranno lo stesso a cucinare, ne sono convinto.
Io guardo gli altri MasterChef del mondo, ma la nostra qualità è altissima, e ci sono tantissime novità: lo chef (?) ombra, che ci dà idee di quello che sono i concorrenti, vede cosa fanno dietro le quinte, ci dà un piccolo preavviso.
L’esposizione mediatica ha rivoluzionato il nostro mestiere, e lo ha fatto fatto diventare tale, serio. Nel giudicare guardiamo anche il carattere, la sincerità, che vengono espressi nei piatti, ma il prodotto finale, il look, cambia da persona a persona. Fosse per me non eliminerei nessuno, quello è un momento tragico, lo ammetto”.
Ristoranti stellati in evoluzione
Locatelli, sempre schietto e diretto nelle interviste, lo è oltremodo ad un certo punto su un argomento cruciale della ristorazione, quello dei ristoranti stellati che, secondo lui, devono proseguire una loro evoluzione, dando più inclusione.
“Abbiamo sotto il naso un esempio lampante”, prosegue, quello di Davide Oldani, col suo ristorante D'O, creando una cucina di qualità stellata appunto, che però riesce a vendere anche a un prezzo accessibile. I problemi in generale sono enormi, il costo del personale, di gestione dei posti, di affitto, gas, luce, non si può produrre del cibo di qualità per niente, specialmente se poi il prodotto è alto. Sicuramente, però, alcuni cercano di focalizzarsi sul dividere il pranzo dalla cena, producendo un menù di 3 portate, dove l’esperienza magari è più accessibile, anche non puoi andare tutti i giorni a mangiare in uno stellato”.
Cosa mi sorprende? “Vedo tanti giovani che risparmiano per andare a mangiare lì, ecco io apprezzo di più il cliente così, che si concede questo, è importante. Dobbiamo togliere però questo sapore di elitismo, che a me non interessa, certo se io sto comprando qualcosa a 80 sterline l’uno, non posso non venderla a 27-30, se no ci rimetterei. Ma nei menù, noi, mettiamo prezzi anche inferiori, così la scelta diventa maggiormente vasta e aperta”.
Natale e il Panettone (di Antonino)
“La mia famiglia aveva un ristorante”, ci dice Locatelli, “tutti a Natale abbiamo sempre lavorato, dal nonno alla nonna, da mio papà a mia mamma, anche quelli che facevano altro venivano ad aiutare. Poi alla sera andavamo dalla pasticceria degli zii a Gallarate, quel tavolone mi manca tantissimo. Oggi sulla tavola il panettone non può mancare, soprattutto quello di Antonino (sorride, ndr): è eccezionale, sono sicuro che tornerò con uno di quelli sotto il braccio”.
