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L’immagine e la comunicazione di Victoria’s Secret sono sempre state molto orientate a una generale sessualizzazione dei corpi femminili. Ma le nuove modelle che propone oggi, a 5 anni dal metoo e dalle vecchie polemiche che avevano investito il marchio, lasciano a bocca aperta: i nuovi “angeli” sono anche top model 50enni, ragazze in sedia a rotelle e modelle curvy. Più rivoluzione di così non si può. Victoria’s Secret non faceva una sfilata dal 2018, dopo che quella del 2019 fu cancellata per diversi scandali che riguardavano il suo proprietario e la cultura misogina e sessista dell’azienda. Per anni era stato uno spettacolo molto popolare e seguito, su internet e in tv, ma nel 2018 gli spettatori erano stati 3,3 milioni: cioè pochi, considerando che nel 2013 erano stati 9,7 milioni.
Il rinnovo di immagine
Già nel 2022 aveva rinnovato completamente la propria immagine con una campagna pubblicitaria con donne dai corpi molto diversi tra loro e biancheria intima comoda e poco vistosa, che però era stata giudicata poco convincente perché troppo lontana dall’identità del marchio. Serviva dunque un mix: inclusiva sì ma sempre sexy e kitsch.
Gli "angeli" sono tornati
Sarah Sylvester, la vicepresidente esecutiva del marketing, che ha spiegato che "i nostri clienti ci hanno detto forte e chiaro che la rivolevano". E così sfilata è stata, con una grandissima aspettativa che non è stata delusa.
Chi è Aaron Philip, la modella con disabilità
Nera, transgender e con disabilità, già modella simbolo di tante campagne pubblicitarie e sfilate. Nata ad Antigua e Barbuda, nel Mar dei Caraibi, il 15 marzo 2001, all'età di tre anni le viene diagnosticata una paralisi cerebrale tetraplegica. Con la sua famiglia emigra negli Stati Uniti, dove tuttora vive nel Bronx di New York. Come tanti suoi compagni della Gen Z, Philip si sente a suo agio sui social media e ad appena 12 anni apre il suo blog "Aaronverse" su Tumblr, dove parla della sua convivenza con la paralisi cerebrale. Grazie ai suoi racconti riesce a farsi notare dall'ex Ceo della piattaforma David Karp. Nel 2016, appena adolescente, pubblica un libro di memorie intitolato This Kid Can Fly: It's About Ability (Not Disability), dove descrive in dettaglio le sue esperienze di crescita con paralisi cerebrale. Il libro viene pubblicato da HarperCollins e contribuisce ad accrescere la sua fama on e offline. Dopo aver fatto coming out come gender-fluid all'età di 14 anni e in seguito essersi dichiarata donna trans non conforme al genere, decide di dedicarsi alla moda. Grazie ai social media nota una mancanza di rappresentazione delle donne trans di colore all'interno dell'industria della moda, per non parlare di chiunque abbia una disabilità, così decide di mettersi in gioco. Dopo diversi progetti editoriali sul tema dell'inclusività, nel 2019 diventa il volto della rivista Paper e viene scelta come ambassador di diversi brand, da Dove a Sephora, da Outdoor Voices a Nike, fino a comparire nel video musicale da oltre 100 milioni di visualizzazioni Mother's Daughter di Miley Cyrus. "L'industria della moda ha conosciuto solo un tipo di corpo e un tipo di figura commerciabile per così tanto tempo. Ora [invece] stiamo entrando in questo momento, e in questo clima, in cui tutti i tipi di corpi vogliono essere spinti in avanti e celebrati, non solo celebrati, ma essere visti come desiderabili e commerciabili" – ha detto in un'intervista alla Cnn Aaron. Il ringraziamento sul Instagram dopo lo show: "Grazie infinitamente per avermi ospitato e per aver pensato a me #VSFashionShow Mi sono divertito un sacco a festeggiare l'iconica VS eredità e il ritorno sulla passerella, oltre alle splendide modelle che hanno camminato"
Lo spettacolo
Ad aprire lo spettacolo è stata la top model Gigi Hadid con un paio di ali rosa, rigorosamente sintetiche ed ambientaliste. Sono esattamente quelle ali che danno il “Angels”. Di recente si sono aggiunte anche le “Ambassador”, persone famose per i loro successi anziché per la loro bellezza, come la calciatrice e attivista per i diritti LGBT+ Megan Rapinoe. C’erano alcune modelle che hanno fatto la storia del marchio, come Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio e Tyra Banks. E ancora le “plus size” Paloma Elsesser e Ashley Graham, e le modelle transgender Valentina Sampaio e Alex Consani. C’è stata anche attenzione all’età: il 15 per cento delle modelle aveva più di 40 anni, tra cui Carla Bruni (56), Eva Herzigova (51) e Kate Moss, che a 50 anni ha sfilato per l’azienda per la prima volta, insieme alla figlia Lila. Si sono anche visti capelli afro al naturale (e non lisciati come prima), cicatrici e lentiggini non coperte dal trucco.
Non tutti hanno apprezzato
La giornalista Aiyana Ishmael di Teen Vogue ha scritto che "mentre vedevo una modella magra dopo l’altra sono stata catapultata nel salotto della mia infanzia, quando guardavo donne che non mi assomigliavano dettare uno standard di bellezza che nessuna donna raggiungerà mai". Anche secondo Dani Maher di Harper’s Bazaar «la passerella era ancora dominata da modelle magre convenzionalmente attraenti»; inoltre la sfilata mancava di «spettacolarità» e senso del divertimento: "ho sentito la mancanza della giocosità di alcuni temi dei vecchi tempi: quelli ridicolmente kitsch che prendevano ispirazione dallo sport, dal circo, dagli animali selvaggi, dai supereroi e altro ancora" e ha aggiunto che "nella mia testa si sono impressi dei momenti come nelle sfilate passate? Non ne sono certa".
