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aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125157_6bbe6f1d28\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u00221133\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125157_6bbe6f1d28\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u00221133\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E19 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125154_ae0eea89f7\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022500\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125154_ae0eea89f7\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022500\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E20 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125151_ec154d054b\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022540\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125151_ec154d054b\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022540\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E21 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125148_e6547de37c\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125148_e6547de37c\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E22 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125145_6f81fabe30\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u00221133\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125145_6f81fabe30\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u00221133\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E23 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125142_a43119ccd5\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125142_a43119ccd5\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E24 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125139_176907e89f\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125139_176907e89f\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E25 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125136_e322384276\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125136_e322384276\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E26 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125133_e029f814b3\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125133_e029f814b3\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E27 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125130_e45a17cff8\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u00221064\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125130_e45a17cff8\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u00221064\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E28 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125127_1a3ba0ed6b\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022524\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/2125127_1a3ba0ed6b\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Charlotte Casiraghi meravigliosa amazzone alla sfilata di Chanel\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 style=\\u0022width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022524\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E29 \\\/ 35\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; 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Una modella che sfila a cavallo forse non si era mai vista al Grand Palais Ephemere, ma se la modella è Charlotte Casiraghi, cavallerizza di classe' anche nella vita, lo spettacolo è assicurato. È uscita 'al passo' in sella al suo destriero in giacca nera di tweed con bottoni gioiello. Poi ha aumentato l'andatura, girando al trotto nel percorso tracciato dalla passerella in mezzo al pubblico seduto. Infine è uscita dalla sala al galoppo tra i commenti meravigliati del pubblico. Charlotte Casiraghi ha aperto così la sfilata della collezione haute couture Primavera/Estate 2022 di Chanel, di nuovo e finalmente in presenza di pubblico.
Allestimento originale
L'universo visivo della nuova sfilata di Chanel voluto dalla direttrice creativa della maison, Virginie Viard, vede all'opera l'artista Xavier Veilhan per una allestimento ispirato al costruttivismo. Per la prima volta Chanel ha affidato a un artista contemporaneo l'ideazione dell'allestimento di un fashion show. In parte paesaggio, in parte giardino e in parte palcoscenico teatrale all'aperto, il progetto di Veilhan integra sia la passerella che i posti a sedere riservati agli spettatori. Questa disposizione evoca immagini care all'artista: dai percorsi equestri e canini all'architettura di un minigolf, dal principio di leggerezza (elementi gonfiabili) all'uso di materiali semplici (compensato naturale, tappetini, alzate per palco).
Tutte le arti in una sfilata
Ritroviamo anche qui elementi ricorrenti del vocabolario dell'artista, in particolare l'immagine del cavallo (spesso presente, filmato o rappresentato nei suoi spettacoli), gli strumenti musicali di grandi dimensioni dello Studio Venezia dal Padiglione francese alla Biennale di Venezia (2017), così come allusioni a una modernità iniziata con l'avanguardia degli anni Venti. Tutti riferimenti che si intersecano con il mondo Chanel e fanno eco alle creazioni di Mademoiselle Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld e Virginie Viard. Per questo progetto Viard e Veilhan hanno deciso di collaborare con il cantautore Sebastien Tellier, che suona dal vivo strumenti giganti, con il fotografo Ola Rindal, con il quale Veilhan ha firmato una serie d'immagini, e con lo scenografo Alexis Bertrand. Ognuno di loro è già stato coinvolto in mostre, performance e spettacoli dell'artista.
L’ ambasciatrice della maison
Charlotte Casiraghi, ambasciatrice della maison è anche ripresa in un film che evoca un mondo immaginario legato a Chanel che precede la sfilata. 'L'idea per l'allestimento della mostra - spiega Virginie Viard - è nata da un desiderio di lunga data di lavorare con Xavier Veilhan. I suoi riferimenti al costruttivismo mi ricordano quelli di Karl Lagerfeld. Mi piace questa somiglianza di spirito tra noi, ora e nel tempo. Oltre a creare l'arredamento della mostra con i suoi riferimenti alle avanguardie degli anni Venti e Trenta, Xavier ha voluto lavorare con Charlotte Casiraghi. Il suo universo artistico è pieno di cavalli e Charlotte è un'abile cavallerizza'. 'Xavier e Sébastien sono amici. Insieme a Charlotte, formano il tipo di famiglia Chanel di cui mi piace circondarmi'. 'Questo arredamento, un cenno all'estetica delle Esposizioni Universali - prosegue la couturier - ha agito come una cornice in cui mi sono sentita molto libera. Queste forme geometriche mi hanno fatto venire voglia di contrasti, una grande leggerezza e tanta freschezza: abiti eterei che fluttuano come sospesi. Tante balze, frange, macramè, pizzi luminosi, tweed cangianti, bottoni gioiello colorati.
La nuova collezione
Nella nuova collezione c'è desiderio di una ritrovata femminilità con la giacca di tweed rosa a righe bianche, con i cinturini composti da treccia bianca ricamata con perline o le catene d'argento, con le Mary-Janes bicolore con tacchi ispirati agli anni Venti rivisitati fino agli anni Ottanta, e ricami finemente geometrici, come a riecheggiare le arredamento. Tutti i partner dei laboratori di ricamo della maison Chanel hanno collaborato a questa collezione. Uno dei pezzi chiave della collezione è un abito interamente ricamato da Lesage con camelie costruite in perline nere, bianche e corallo, indossato con una giacchetta nera' sottolinea Virginie Viard prima di concludere: 'Questi riferimenti appartengono anche a Gabrielle Chanel, ovviamente. La nostra è come una conversazione che attraversa il tempo'.