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Calvin Klein cala il sipario sulla sua linea lusso. Il brand americano ha annunciato la chiusura di Calvin Klein Collection, rinominata 205W39NYC nel 2017 sotto la gestione creativa di Raf Simons. La decisione è solo l'ultimo capitolo di una saga iniziata con l'abbandono di Simons lo scorso Natale e la rinuncia all'ultima New York Fashion Week. Il designer era andato via all'improvviso otto mesi prima della fine del suo contratto, e lasciando la casa di moda senza una collezione per le sfilate newyorkesi dello scorso febbraio.
Chiude anche a NY e Milano
Nel frattempo Calvin Klein aveva annunciato un rebrand della linea nonché la ricerca per un successore di Simons e ora invece la decisione di affossarla totalmente e di concentrarsi sul denim e sull'intimo. Come conseguenza della chiusura di 205W39NYC, il brand chiuderà anche il suo flagship store a Manhattan al civico 654 di Madison Avenue. L'annus horribilis di Calvin Klein ha avuto ripercussioni anche sull'Italia visto che qualche settimana fa era stata annunciata anche la chiusura dell'ufficio di Milano con a rischio la sorte di una cinquantina di dipendenti, alcuni dei quali potrebbero tuttavia essere ricollocati presso l'affiliata PVH Corp.
La storia e le testimonial
Il marchio Calvin Klein Inc. fu creato nel 1968 dallo stilista e imprenditore Calvin Klein e la sua prima apparizione alla New York Fashion Week risale al 1994. Il successo fu immediato grazie ad un design minimalista e all'uso del denim. Aiutò inoltre a lanciare la carriera della top model Kate Moss la quale viene scelta sia per una campagna trasgressiva della linea intimo sia per campagna pubblicitaria del profumo Obsession in cui la Moss appariva seminuda. Ancora prima, storiche le campagne pubblicitarie dell'intimo con all'epoca una Brooke Shields ancora minorenne. Con l'arrivo di Simons nel 2017 si sperava in un nuovo capitolo per l'azienda invece la visione del designer belga si è rivelata diversa da quella del brand. Inoltre, secondo quanto hanno scritto diversi media americani, la decisione di metterlo alla porta è stata dettata dal calo dei profitti. Nel primo trimestre del 2018 infatti il fatturato è calato di circa venti milioni di dollari, passando da 142 milioni a 121.
