Cos'è la dermorexia: quando la skincare diventa una malattia. Ecco cosa preoccupa i dermatologi

L'ultima ossessione

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aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/makeup_4912678_1280_fc726d6236\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/makeup_4912678_1280_fc726d6236\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Cos\\u00e8 la dermorexia quando la skincare diventa una malattia Ecco cosa preoccupa i dermatologi\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E9 \\\/ 11\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9\\u0022 class=\\u0022w-100 bg-dark d-flex justify-content-center align-items-center gallery-slider pb-2\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cfigure\\u003E\\u003Cpicture class=\\u0027picture-bg\\u0027\\u003E\\u003Csource media=\\u0022(min-width: 0px)\\u0022 srcset=\\u0022https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/face_mask_2578428_1280_81e69d5ab0\\\/preview.webp 754w\\u0022 sizes=\\u0022100vw\\u0022 width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003Cimg loading=\\u0027lazy\\u0027 src=\\u0027https:\\\/\\\/www.milleunadonna.it\\\/media\\\/face_mask_2578428_1280_81e69d5ab0\\\/preview.webp\\u0027 alt=\\u0022Cos\\u00e8 la dermorexia quando la skincare diventa una malattia Ecco cosa preoccupa i dermatologi\\u0022 class=\\u0027figure-img\\u0027 width: 100%;aspect-ratio: 16\\\/9;object-fit: contain width=\\u0022755\\u0022 height=\\u0022503\\u0022 \\\/\\u003E\\u003C\\\/picture\\u003E\\u003C\\\/figure\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\u0022,\u0022\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022post-item p-2 position-relative\\u0022\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\u0022slide-pagination bg-dark w-100\\u0022\\u003E10 \\\/ 11\\u003C\\\/div\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\u0022width: 100%; 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Cosè la dermorexia quando la skincare diventa una malattia Ecco cosa preoccupa i dermatologi

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di Redazione

Se sei una Millennials hai di certo riempito il tuo bagno di prodotti skincare. Curare la propria pelle, prevenire l'invecchiamento precoce, prendersi cura dell'igiene del nostro viso, sono tutte ottime abitudini. Basta che non diventino ossessioni. E sì, perché da un paio di anni si è osservato che la corsa alla prevenzione all'invecchiamento della pelle sta già interessando i pre-adolescenti che hanno cominciato ad usare i cosmetici anti-age. A questo punto stiamo parlando di dermorexia.

Il caso dei Sephora kids

"Una serie di comportamenti ossessivi abilitati e incoraggiati dall'industria della cura della pelle: adolescenti che escogitano routine anti-età in più fasi per paura di future rughe, adulti che si indebitano per sottoporsi a trattamenti iniettivi, uniti dalla preoccupazione frenetica e intergenerazionale per i retinoidi, gli acidi esfolianti e la ricerca di una luminosità irraggiungibile". E' la giornalista Jessica DeFino nella sua newsletter controcorrente The Unpublishable, ha usare per prima il termine dermorexia per descrivere questa nuova mania tra i pre-adolescenti che fanno incetta di prodotti skincare nonostante la loro giovane età. Per questo di parla di Sephora kids (sephora è la combinazione di sephos, che in greco significa "bellezza" e del nome biblico Zippora, la moglie di Mosè), proprio a causa anche dell'aumento esponenziale di tutorial beauty condivisi sui social network tra bambine.

Perché invece che prevenire così invecchiamo la pelle

Il troppo storpia, si usa dire. Ed è esattamente così. Troppa skincare può essere controproducente per la pelle che ha un'innata capacità di autoripararsi e di ristabilire l'equilibrio. Troppa stratificazione di principi attivi non adatti alla propria tipologia di cute, può logorarne la capacità intrinseca di protezione, portando allo squilibrio del microbiota cutaneo e della barriera protettiva. Forse quindi non sono un caso l'aumento dermatiti e l'acne in età adulta. Non aiutano certo i trend skincare virali su TikTok soprattutto su un pubblico di giovanissime attratto anche dai trattamenti di medicina estetica. La cultura ossessiva della bellezza non fa bene alla nostra autostima e quindi alla nostra felicità e neppure alla pelle. Il rapporto con i cosmetici deve essere normalizzato.

Salute o bellezza?

La parola cosmetica viene dal greco kosmos che significa ordine da qui kosmesis: mettere in ordine, ovvero raggiungere l'armonia. Ma la cosmetica non è cura della pelle, il suo obiettivo è puramente estetico. Come sottolinea anche Jessica DeFino, ci comportiamo come se la nostra pelle "avesse bisogno di essere ripristinata tutti i giorni. La pelle ha bisogno di una skincare consapevole, che parta dall'idratazione, l'unico aspetto davvero trasversale a tutte le età e il punto focale della beauty routine delle giovanissime".

Il fatturato di questa ossessione

La ricerca di Statista, global data e business intelligence platform, ci dice che il fatturato globale nel segmento skincare del mercato Beauty & Personal Care continuerà ad aumentare costantemente tra il 2024 e il 2028 per un totale di 24 miliardi di dollari (+ 12,88%). L’indicatore potrebbe raggiungere i 210,7 miliardi di dollari. Tutto questo ai danni della nostra pelle.

Foto Pixabay gratuite

31/05/2024

Cos'è la dermorexia: quando la skincare diventa una malattia. Ecco cosa preoccupa i dermatologi

L'ultima ossessione

Il caso dei Sephora kids

Perché invece che prevenire così invecchiamo la pelle

Salute o bellezza?

Il fatturato di questa ossessione

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