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L'abbronzatura e la guerra ai peli (tutti) sono due mode storicamente molto recenti. Se pensiamo che anche l'abitudine estiva di frequentare le spiagge in costume è essa stessa una pratica iniziata appena 150 anni fa, prima per gli uomini e solo nei primi del 900 ammessa anche alle donne, ci rendiamo conto che tintarella e pelle liscia sono due usanze nate praticamente 'ieri'.
Alle nuovo generazioni può sembrare assurdo, ma prima avere la pelle arrossata o addirittura bruna per via del sole era disdicevole e la peluria sulle braccia o sotto le ascelle normale.
Un tempo chi aveva la pelle abbronzata era di una classe sociale povera
Chi aveva la pelle abbronzata era di una classe sociale povera e il lavoro all'aperto era il motivo per cui queste persone non possedevano il candore di chi ovviamente non doveva per necessità trascorrere molte ore della giornata per esempio nei campi o al fiume per lavare i panni o in qualunque cantiere. Dietro questa passione per la pelle bianchissima c'era del razzismo e del classismo diffuso, un sentimento assolutamente normalizzato dalla popolazione dell'epoca. Le stesse lavoratrici invidiavano la pelle chiara delle 'Signore'.
Oggi se una persona in estate non è abbronzata viene considerata nella migliore delle ipotesi 'strana'. Nonostante nell'ultimo periodo l'uso abbondante di creme solari abbia attenuato la folle moda malsana di diventare scurissimi, anche grazie alla diffusione delle informazioni riguardo la nocività dei raggi solari e la prevenzione al melanoma.
Quando la pelle color cioccolato è diventata cult?
Useremo delle date per raccontare prima la storia dell'abbronzatura e poi quella della depilazione.
I primi anni del ‘900 verranno chiamati anche Belle époque, è in questo periodo che nasce l'idea del tempo libero e delle prime località turistiche. Tra tutte località termali e balneari. I ricchi iniziano così a passare più tempo sotto il sole.
1903, il premio Nobel per la medicina Niels Ryben Finsen scopre la fototerapia. Grazie ai suoi studi si accorge che una moderata esposizione ai raggi UV, è in grado di attenuare sintomi di patologie come la tubercolosi o il rachitismo. In parole povere il sole fa bene e stare al sole cura e previene molto malattie dell'epoca.
L'abbronzatura però non è ancora vista di buon occhio dall'alta società. La prima a sdoganare la pelle dorata sarà la stilista rivoluzionaria per eccellenza Coco Chanel (una influencer dell'epoca). In vacanza in Costa Azzurra, si fa ritrarre con la pelle arrossata.
Nel 1928 che arriva il primo olio abbronzante “Huile de Chaldée” dello stilista francese Jean Patou, seguito nel 1935 dal primo olio abbronzante con protezione dai raggi UV di L’Oréal.
Col secondo dopo guerra tra le classi agiate e più colte la mania della pelle chiara sparisce. Le star di Hollywood che ora recitano in film a colori sposano in pieno il look abbronzato. Negli anni 2000 la tendenza cambia. Il cancro fa paura. Abbronzati sì ma con moderazione.
E la storia dei peli qual è?
La depilazione femminile, e da due decenni quella maschile, è una pratica estetica diffusissima che ha, come l'abbronzatura, un’origine piuttosto recente (è vero che anche Cleopatra si depilava ma erano casi più unici che rari).
Questa abitudine risale infatti solo ai primi decenni del Novecento. Perché?
Con l'arrivo delle gonne più corte le gambe iniziano a vedersi e quindi anche la peluria ma le date che possiamo citare come simboliche sono:
- 1901, ingresso dei rasoi con lame intercambiabili
- 1919 l'arrivo nel mercato delle creme depilatorie istantanee
Allo stesso tempo nelle riviste femminili si promuove la pelle liscia sulle gambe. Un vero lavaggio del cervello mediatico che ha coinvolto negli anni sempre più parti del corpo. Fino alla depilazione delle ascelle negli anni 90 e nei 2000 la depilazione totale per donne e uomini.
La depilazione oggi è un dogma: cerette e depilazione con filo sono arrivate fino a noi grazie al mondo arabo, mentre l’invenzione del rasoio si deve invece a Jean-Jacques Perret.
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Negli ultimissimi anni le nuove tendenze che trovano nei movimenti femministi a volte una spalla, promuovono un abbandono progressivo della depilazione per esempio delle sopracciglia e delle ascelle o addirittura delle gambe, ma il grande pubblico non segue queste mode estemporanee e invece investe migliaia di euro nei trattamenti di laser definitivi.
E voi di che scuola di pensiero siete?
