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C'è un film bellissimo del 2022 scritto e diretto da Marie Kreutzer intitolato Il corsetto dell'imperatrice che racconta molto bene come l'imperatrice Elisabetta d'Austria (Sissi) usasse il corsage per assottigliare ancora di più il suo vitino da vespa e plasmare il suo corpo, già frustrato da diete e sport estenuanti, per restare bella e non invecchiare davanti al popolo. Liberate del corsetto, però, ci è toccato un altro strumento di semi-tortura, molto più accettabile e comodo, va detto, ma comunque fastidioso che ha come solo scopo quello di rendere bello il seno, sessualizzarlo, trasformandolo in un oggetto del desiderio per gli uomini. Mentre per l'ennesima volta si oggettivava il corpo femminile del benessere delle donne nessuno continuava a interessarsi. Neppure le stesse donne che a un certo punto sono state convinte che usare il reggiseno portasse dei benefici alla salute delle mammelle. Il patriarcato sa essere molto subdolo e bugiardo.
La storia del reggiseno
Il reggiseno è una invenzione piuttosto recente. Il primo brevetto per un reggiseno moderno fu registrato da Mary Phelps Jacob nel 1914. Da allora è diventato un capo d’abbigliamento standard associato a un senso di decoro. Non portalo ancora oggi viene considerato sfacciato o sinonimo di sciatteria. Eppure in tante culture e per molti secoli le donne hanno vissuto senza alcun tipo di supporto artificiale.
Il No bra, non solo una tendenza ma una richiesta di parità
Il movimento “No Bra” rappresenta una richiesta di parità e di rispetto per le scelte individuali delle donne. La pressione sociale che impone alle donne di indossare il reggiseno è vista come un simbolo di oppressione e controllo sui corpi femminili. Scegliere di non indossare il reggiseno diventa quindi un atto di ribellione contro queste pressioni oltre che una scelta di reale comodità. L’attrice Emma Watson ha dichiarato: “La libertà di scelta è fondamentale. Nessuno dovrebbe sentirsi costretto a indossare qualcosa per conformarsi agli standard degli altri”. Ha ragione! Che sia un velo sui capelli come un reggiseno. Sì perché accanto alla sessualizzazione delle mammelle il reggiseno è spesso visto anche come uno strumento di decoro. Ossia il voler coprire i capezzoli femminili e quindi nascondere la sessualità delle donne. Due usi contraddittori ma comunque sempre di controllo in una cultura che tende ad attribuire la pulsione sessuale principalmente agli uomini. Come a dire, donna non provocare.
Il movimento ieri e oggi
Negli anni ’70, alcune femministe bruciarono reggiseni in segno di protesta contro la sessualizzazione del corpo femminile, con uno slogan che recitava: “Bruciate i corsetti!… No, non conservate nemmeno le stecche di balena, non ne avrete più bisogno. Fate un falò degli acciai crudeli che hanno dominato il vostro torace e addome per tanti anni e tirate un sospiro di sollievo, perché vi assicuro che da questo momento la vostra emancipazione è iniziata”. Attualmente soprattutto tra la generazione dei Millennial e Gen Z, scelgono di non indossare il reggiseno, basando le proprie scelte più su ciò che vogliono loro e non sulle norme sociali. Il termine “No Bra” (termine internazionalmente utilizzato per indicare il reggiseno) si riferisce alla scelta di non indossare il reggiseno, un capo di abbigliamento che, per decenni, è stato considerato un elemento essenziale della moda femminile. Questa tendenza promuove l’accettazione del corpo naturale delle donne. Perché è ovvio che senza reggiseno il seno non ha la forma omologata tonda e sta più in basso, soggetto alla forza di gravità e al movimento. Un momento iconico fu la protesta del 1968 a Miss America, dove alcune femministe gettarono simbolicamente reggiseni, corsetti e altri “strumenti di tortura femminile” in un “bidone della libertà”. Oggi molte donne, tra cui influencer e celebrità, hanno abbracciato e promosso il “No Bra” come una forma di espressione personale e di protesta contro le norme di genere restrittive.
Alcune celebrità che non usano il reggiseno
Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Miley Cyrus, Bella Hadid, Gillian Anderson, Jennifer Aniston, Rihanna. (Guarda gallery in alto)
